Saturday, June 21, 2014

6-13-14

6-13-14

6-13-14          Stockholm, the capital of Sweden

 Our group of seven met in the Stardust Theater (along with a large number of other passengers) and was assigned to bus 19.  We were given a round white sticker to wear on the front of our shirts.  We soon met our tour guide, an older gentleman named Magnus.  
 
There are about 9.5 million people living in the metropolitan area, though most of the population lives in 1/3rd of the country.  There is a long history of fighting among the Swedish and their neighbors.  Fortunately, most of the fighting is now done on the soccer field.  Mangus noted that the Danish people are thankful that the wars are behind them. 

As we drove along the harbor, Magnus pointed out the lock system that accommodated ships which were traveling from the lake to the sea.  These locks have been in existence for almost 400 years. 

200 years ago, one of the kings, who had no children, had to find a successor for the throne.  He knew the French General who was the field Marshall, and asked him if he would agree to become the crowned prince.  He readily agreed and the county is now in the 7th generation of descendants of this general.  Princess Victoria will be the next head of state, when her father dies. He is currently only 68 years old. 

The bus drove through Old Town and we passed the Cathedral, the Swedish parliament, the Grand Hotel and the Royal Palace.  Magnus noted that there are many boats in Stockholm, as there are over 30,000 islands in the Archipelagos in the Sea of Finland.  The city, itself, is built on 14 islands, so there are many bridges throughout the city. 

The bus let us off at the Vasa museum.  Our timing was perfect, as we arrived in time for the English film, which describes this historic event.  The king commissioned a ship to be built that had room for 450 soldiers and 64 cannons.  It was to be a symbol of the power of the Swedish navy.  However, on its maiden voyage, it had gone less than a mile from the dock, when a gust of wind caused it to keel to the side and begin to take on water.  It sank in less than 30 minutes.   



A council of state was convened.  But the determination was that no one was at fault.  The incident was all but forgotten by the Swedish people.  300 years later, in 1956, a marine expert was able to locate the remains of the vessel.  Using special cable lifts and pumps to displace the water, the wreck was raised from the harbor.  Archeologist documented over 40,000 separate pieces of artifacts comprising the ship.  Numerous august individuals were present on the day of the raising, including the current King, Adolphus.  Huge sections of the ship were preserved in the cold waters of the bay.  Each piece of artifacts had to be thoroughly washed to remove layers of mud.  Pieces of 15 skeletons were found.  Analysis of these artifacts actually determined what the soldiers had eaten prior to there death.

Originally, there were some who thought the cause of the sinking was due to the fact that the cannons had pulled free from their positions on the deck.  But the excavation revealed that the cannons were secured in place.  So it was finally determined that the sinking was a result of too high a center of gravity, meaning that there was too little ballast for the height of the ship.  Basically, the vessel was “top heavy”.  It took 17 years to preserve the ship in its entirety.  It had to be constantly sprayed with water to keep the wood from disintegrating.  In 1979, the wood was polyurethaned for more permanent preservation.  The ship contained over 700 wooden sculptures, including angels and musicians holding musical instruments.  These sculptures were decorated with bright colored paint, as a symbol to the enemies that they were powerful and could not be conquered. 





In the 1660’s the people managed to recover 58 of the 60 cannons from the wreck.  This was accomplished by the use of a diving bell.  Divers were forces to be submerged in the device, then required to attached ropes to the cannons, which were raised from the bay. The cannons were, then, sold by the Swedish king.  There are no records of the number of people who were drowned during this salvage operation. 


One floor of the museum had exhibits of some of the relics discovered on the ship. They included pottery, clothes, gloves, games, pipes and even shoes.  One of the displays noted the salary of the various ships personnel.  The captain earned 475 “duler”, while the seaman only earned 57.  There was only one gold relic found on the ship.  It was a ring that may have belonged to one of the affluent officials who was invited to participate in the christening of the ship. 

After the Vasa tour, our bus driver took us for a short drive in the area where most of the foreign diplomats reside.  The British Ambassador lives next to the South Korean representative, who lives next door to the ambassador from Belgium.  Then we drove past the British and American embassies.

Our next stop was the Ice Bar.  It is located in one of the downtown hotels.  Magnus gave us a black and white poker chip to “pay” for our entrance fee. The entire room was lined with thick walls of ice.  The temperature inside was 5 degrees below zero.  The ice is actually delivered from the Artic Circle, where the owner still resides.  We were given heavy fur-lined capes to wear over our clothes.  Then we received a complimentary drink in a square ice “glass”.  The owner of the club has had quite a success and has opened similar bars in other major cities including New York City, Milan, Italy and other places throughout Europe.  It was a very unique experience. 



Getting back on the bus, we drove past the City Hall, which is where the banquet is held for the Nobel Prize winner. This ceremony is celebrated every December 10th, as that is the date of Alfred Nobel’s death.

We passed the Swedish Government building where the Prime Minister arrives each morning.  It is the political center of the country.  General elections are held in September.  There are currently four different parties.  Next we drove past the Swedish House of Parliament and the Swedish Royal Palace, both of which fly the Swedish flag.  The Royal palace had 600 rooms, most of which are still in use today.

Magnus told our tour group that the current Stockholm Cathedral was built in the 18th century.  The current King and Queen where married in this church, as well as the Crown Princess Victoria (4 years ago).  At this point in our tour, we left the bus.  We were pleased to see that the royal equestrian soldiers were just finishing a ceremonial maneuver.  The soldiers all wore blue and white uniforms.  We were told that this was the end of the changing of the guard at the royal palace.  The palace guards protect the palace 24 hours a day and 7 days a week.  One of our tourists asked what the # 16 on the side of the uniforms meant.  Magnus told us that the current King of Sweden is the 16th Swedish king.

We were allowed to roam the pedestrian streets of about an hour.  Roger and I found a small shop selling ice cream and ordered a chocolate brownie with caramel on top.  It sure tasted good!  Then were bought a little Viking troll for a souvenir.  He had the Swedish flag painted on his shield.  As we strolled along the street, we saw different musicians performing.  One was an accordion player and next were two young violinists.  A third musician was playing music on water goblets containing different levels of water. 

It was a very enjoyable day and quite a surprise to me.  I had always thought of the Swedish as having very modern architecture and very liberal views.  But that was not the case at all.  Their buildings are a very lovely traditional design.     


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